Tuesday, September 21, 2010

Figueira da Foz to Coimbra

 

Lowell traverses Cabo Montego


Starting off in Quiamos, we did not want to ascend the long road back to the N109. We stood at the beach,watching waves and contemplating our choices. We could climb a substantial distance of 14 K, back out to the main road or could do a 4K trip around the Cabo Montego to Bucacao and on to F. da Foz.
The issue however was on every map we had there was no actual road on the 4 K choice.
     LM! The local guard showed up to check the beach and recommened the shorter round. Each way would consist of a climb but the 4K was not only shorter it had great views. The guard promised laughing to come look for us if we did not make it and so with a lightheartedness we set off for a quick coffee.
  The guards (and the gentleman at the counter in the coffee shop were both right and not only were the substantial incredible views but the short steep climb (14%) was worth the free miles down the other side into F. da Fo   z.
     In F. da Foz we were able to obtain some needed supplies includng an electrical adaptor which we thought we had but didn´t and a bicycle pump. Our floor pump and bicycle pumps each had problems and not all gas stations had an air pump that fit our adaptors. It was worth it to me to buy the floor pump for a mere €17. Lowell was also missing screws for his shoes. For the future we note that the screws come loose and a couple of extra won´t hurt.
The Bicycle Shop in F. da Foz
     After a trip to Pingo Doce super mercado we were feeling pretty darn great having received directions from the bicycle shop on the best bike route to Coimbra. We backed this up with a few questions down the road from some utility workers and off we went.
Yes, off we went, down the road and then off the pavement onto the gravel as directed to the other side of the power plant then back onto pavement headed...where? Keep the river on your right shoulder they said. Don´t divert they said. So why is the river over there and we are on a canal here? Did they mean the canal? We can´t see anyway over to the river and that way is gravel and this way is pavement, albeit with hundreds of potholes.
And so it went, until we ran into each other trying to avoid potholes at 15 miles per hour. Connecting panniers Lowell skewered out of control and fell head first (for the second time in two months), while I skidded to a stop, a ways down the road. Looking back I was relieved to see Lowell standing with blood running down his face without any outstanding angles in his body.
After further inspection it was another LM! A few minor scratches and kudos to his helmet as he has three deep purple bruises that match exactly the holes in his helmet. Another disaster diverted(although he wasn´t quite as sure as I was.) The bicycle took a bit and had to have handlebars re-adjusted as well as the rack, fenders, brake levers and saddle.
Now somewhat lost, somewhat injured, definitely hot and tired, we plugged on until finally we gave in to a lunch on a farmer´s road in the shade scattered in sheep nuggets.
Lunch with the Sheep Nuggets


Continuing on we came to a crossroads that stretched in four directions as far as you could see. Checking all our maps we were at an end as to which way to go with no one and no cars in sight...and LM! Here comes unseen and out of nowhere an elderly woman, dressed in traditional black clothing which gave us the directions. Go straight, always! she said, don´t turn! she said, slapping her arm as if to punish it for pointing the wrong way, and off we went again... to get lost again and further stop to talk with women hand washing and repairing their laundry. Up the road to the principle street and then right, don´t turn and always straight! And off we went to only turn around and start over again from the canal.
     We asked directions of a man repairing the canal.... two roundabouts and then right, don´t turn and then straight! he said and finally we made it! Onto the N111, our original choice in the morning and the final 30 kilometers to Coimbra. Upon arrival to Coimbra thankfully we found easy, marked directions to a fabulous Municipal Campground. After a bit of climbing we dragged ourselves into paradise with hot showers, restaurant, bar, gym, massage, aerobics, swimming pool and miniature golf!
The Municipal Campground in Coimbra
49 miles, a Super Bock and a shower later we were done for the night.

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