Thursday, September 23, 2010

Coimbra to Tomar




We didn't expect to do 60 miles and 2300 feet of climbing but it's how it ended. Our goal was to have a short day, starting out with good directions for safe bicycling by our new friend at the Municipal Campismo, Rita, and head to Conimbriga, home to an extensive complex of Roman Ruins. Eventually our camp was to be in Penela.
A fast route out of town had us the 12 K to Conimbriga in short time. The site are the most well preserved Roman ruins on the Iberian Peninsula and has multiple sections. Houses, now in ruins but with intricate tile mosaic floors intact, baths, laundries, gardens, the requisite Christian chapel built on top of an old bathing area. Floors made with a Swastika design that symbolizes peace. Under a covering is the house of fountains which has had the fountains and water gardens restored. A lunch under the olive trees in the heat and with our new best friends, the flies, we were on our way again. Climbing our way to the mountain top destination of Penela with it's crowning castle we find... the mercado is back downhill , there is no ice and the Municipal campground is closed with no poaching available. we had run out of luck.
Deciding to head further on towards Tomar, we decided to wild camp as there were no campsites or find a residencial/pousada. No such luck and we were on road we do not recommend, the N110/N1. Narrow and a major truck way, no shoulders. I will give credit that many tried to avoid us but there was just no room and Lowell, for the third time this trip, took a fall trying to jump onto a sidewalk.
It did provide lots of local entertainment as he hit the garage door of the local bar, mind you one foot from the street, and had what had to be all 8 of the people who lived in town out on their balconies or out of the bar. At least this time there was no blood and he was up and going again with only sore elbows.
Several stops incurred attempting to find a place to put the tent but all just shook their heads and said that camping was down the road as the sun was dropping.
Attempting to pay gardners with a large truck to take us in to Tomar, where they were going did not work as there was no room in the car and the driver would not allow us in the back..
Chatting with people at the gas station came up with 2 options though. One, a residencial and two the campground. The residencial was just down the street and looked great but camping was 3 K and so we opted for it instead. It was a mistake.
No campground, nada, nein, nicht, nao. No wild camping and we were left with one more choice, 10 K from Tomar was a Residencial that the gardner had mentioned. Upon arrival it was dark, dirty, dingy, dogs barking, drunk men lounging and without much discussion we moved on. We would just pound out the last 10 K.
By this time it was completely dark and even with lots of lights and reflectors and reflective vests it was a bit scary. But LM! occurs.. it's all downhill. When we came to the major interchange roundabout it had every direction on the compass to Tomar. LM! we chose the right one and it headed downhill all the way, quite a long way, directly to the Municipal Campismo.

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