The campground in Guincho by Cascais, as mentioned, is highly recommended, although being here is fall is probably a lot different than mid summer. The Pine trees are short and the tops, while not trimmed are even and the trunks are bent giving the impression of bonsai.
Lightly sanded campsites separated by stone walls, the campground sits on a hillside sheltered from the winds directly off the Atlantic by sand dunes. Cats abound and are seen roaming in the dunes and between the dunes the sea can be seen. Each night we hop up, with a bottle of vinho verde the young green wine of Portugal, on to a cement flat roof building. Some kind of electrical building or tool shed.
It makes the perfect viewing site for sunset. Each night on our trip we always try to watch the sun go down and relax and chat. This place was particularly good for the show and I really enjoyed it. So much so that I was telling Lowell how very lucky I was to be here with him and blah, blah, ect, ect and Lowell the blessed little darling started farting and giggling. Please see attached photo to view Lowell in the very special moment of romantic farting.
We met at camp that night a group arriving late. Russian cyclists that spoke almost no Portuguese or English, they had rented bicycles and gear from Bike Iberia and appeared to be traveling the coast. Just viewing the equipment one would have to consider avoiding this company as a cycling tourist. Rusty chains and all gear loaded on the back, yoga mats for sleeping pads and big fat, mushy saddles, we felt very sorry for the stragglers arriving tired and haggard.
The Mercado was closed and they were out of supplies. Our new best friend however was Marco, the bartender/ store clerk. Brasilian, we had struck up quite a friendship around Super Bock, vinho verde and Brasil. What’s a new friend for! We spoke with Marco regarding the Russian cycling groups dilemma. Marco went to his boss and next thing we know the store is open and 25 cyclists are purchasing supplies to their hearts delight. There was a noticeable change in their demeanor as they settled down for beer, cheese and bread!
There is a 9K bicycle path from Guincho to Cascais and 2K from Cascais to Estoril. Cruising along the coast with a fabulous tailwind we pass Bocas do Inferno, the Mouths of Hell. They would probably be spectacular during a storm but were only just spitting as we passed. The town also provides free bicycles for the day!
Scattered throughout the town in the mainly tourist areas are geared bicycles with baskets that are free to use for an entire day. If you decide to check one out go early as this is a popular option. We had been running into the same German couple for several campgrounds now, the first time in Coimbra and would often stop and chat for travel updates and things to miss or not miss. They informed us of their plan to ride to Sintra and back for the day.
Unfortunately we had to tell them that it was 50 K one way and would be kilometers on end of climbing to and from. Possible to do but would certainly make a miserable day with basic unfitted bicycles and they instead used the bus.
Cascais is a resort town. Large but charming, it is fully fitted to the European tourist. With it’s attending castles and fortresses, lined with beaches, it’s streets are a parade of restaurants, pastellerias and shopping. It is an area to gently wile away the time.
We had been searching the entire trip for an appropriate plug for the computer we were dragging around. After locating a Game Stop in the mall we were directed to Jumbo’s where we found the perfect solution. (For more info on this see the section For Cycling Tourists).
Riding back along the fortess and esplanade we met Harry from Pennsylvania by almost running him over in slow motion. The tinkling of the Crane bicycle bell may have gotten the attention of Harry’s companions but not of Harry and the result was a wonderful conversation about cycling in Pennsylvania and an invite to come ride the state. Harry should work the state’s tourism board, he’s a great seller and has convinced us to see Pennsylvania and it’s Rails to Trails system.
Loaded up with goodies from Jumbo we made our way back to camp for the now traditional farting sunset with vinho verde and another evening with Marco.
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